The Ultimate Monochromatic Co-ed Showcase of 90s Playful Minimalism
Dubbed “L’année ‘97” or “The Year of ‘97”; Jacquemus’ insatiable Ready-to-Wear and Menswear Collections for Fall 2020 reintroduces 90’s sensual minimalism to our style dossiers. Why do we all love Jacquemus? Semblant within all of Jacquemus’ collections is a boyish, spirited approach drawn by his childhood. Iterations of linen were on display as it graced and draped high-voltage supermodels such as Laetitia Casta, the Hadids, Adut Koch Bior, Joan Smalls, & Doutzen Kroes. Being a rigid texture, the transformative nature of this textile was made sculptural, dimensional, & directional – manipulated to various, dream-like forms to our delight.
Featured hues included a medley of blue, ecru, khaki, hazy taupe, lavender, & pastel green. Gentle, the tonal showcase dictated a visual language of simplicity & purity – with linen acting as a storied anchor. The natural monochromatic palette of the ready-to-wear and menswear collections nodded to the ethereal, yet provided contrast. Though from previous collections’ past this was a dialed-down, neutral colourway – Jacquemus brilliantly teased us with pops of his eponymous neon-pink – as displayed in the iconic Spring/Summer 2020 show in his native, lavender-filled Provence. The signature pink popped & melded with the collection with utmost flair. Punctuation, perfected. In addition, new bag styles roamed the spacious runway such as a horizontal version of the iconic Chiquito; amongst varying silhouettes.
Jacquemus appeased our appetites for playful approaches to minimalism with a dialed-down colour palette, yet tested conventions to this streamlined design philosophy. The sumptuous detailing & “undoing” of the garments nods to the most storied of deconstructionism. Made tangible, the “unfinished” nature of the garment is a twist that informs re-imagined conventions of pared-back styles. We saw this through the appearance of trompe l’oeil peek-a-boo waistbands on trousers, gathered linen, and playful eyelet detailing. A melange of streetwear-inspired puffer coats, crop-tops, body-con, tonal multi-layering, & looser cuts were awash on the catwalk.
As the ultimate storyteller, Jacquemus proves once again to be the sartorial architect of muse-worthy fashion; as a twist of construction signals a figment of genius from the spirited designer – making classic styles anew, meaningful, & timeless.
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