New heights. Beginnings afresh. At Jacquemus, “La Montagne” is an ‘en plein air’ ode to the summit of our expectations following isolation. Bright & beautiful, AW21 looks as flashy as convincing.
The showcase was inviting and directional. Surreal yet grounded. Simon Porte opted for an IRL runway for his Fall Ready-to-Wear see-now-buy-now collection. For those of us who missed a show, Jacquemus delivered. Make way for feel-so-good fashion & unapologetic colour fever (i.e. fiery tang & splashy pink). Anything but boring. Trust was a theme throughout. Outdoorsy harness-detailing dangled from cropped zipped shirts & attached to sheath, trompe l’oeil dresses. Silhouettes were as deconstructionist as freeing.
Headlining afoot? Enter Kendall, Bella, & Adut. Bella donned a straight-fitted elasticated waist skirt, finished with earthy crinkling. A part-armour, part bralette graced the decolletage. Shearling mules completed the tonal ensemble. Adut? It was an 80s colour palette which ruled no exception. Splashy pink & engine red soared sirens. For Kendall – it was all show with an ultra-cropped short-sleeved cardi with swaths of the fuzzy fabric secured together with a ‘JACQUEMUS’ closure.
The clasp was one of the details made hero for the collection, as also seen on model Devyn Garcia’s sensual, hickory-eggplant silk chemise & skirt set. Model Jill Kortleve sported a midi knit dress with thin straps held together with that ‘JACQUEMUS’ hardware. Open-vent trousers & boxy blazers were seen. Adapting from sartorial 80s & made anew, the collection was very future nostalgic.
Makeup was barely-there yet luminous. MUA Hiromi Ueda opted for a freshness that was athletic yet beautifying. A healthy base with a natural-looking brow & rosy, in-the-hills flush. Pared-back & soft, it was a sporty finish to complete the ensembles. Hair was followed on course via hairstylist Cyndia Harvey with earthy styles maintained in their most natural form. Hair was kept brushed away from the face, parted-down.
Neon green, atmospheric sky blue, deepended noir, & a palette of neutrals were seen throughout. Extremist lengths, shapes, & layering took to nature for inspiration (i.e. enwrapped sleeping-bag style skirts, itty crop tops, & sun hats). Breathing new energy into AW21, the pieces felt lively. What sets Jacquemus apart? Playing loud.