For Fall 2023, Nensi Dojaka finds a deeper romance and sensuality. The feminine codes of dress for the designer are often played out in juxtaposition (i.e., delicate fabrications intricately formed through craft and structure). This season, edgier silhouettes were met with seduction, as Nensi’s signature skin-baring ensembles revealed an inimitable 90s energy throughout.
Weighter materials such as denim were brought into the collection for the complete wardrobe. Impossibly-chic outerwear added a sumptuous appeal to the lighter-bodied fabrications. Of course, Nensi’s signature reimagined bralette cups, asymmetrical straps, and abundance of sheer were on display.
Naturally, nature was in bloom and seen throughout such as diaphanous shaped ‘explosions’ on dresses that were equally sensual & cool. Colour washes of red, nude, and black were the foundational palettes of the collection. As finale, model Imaan Hammam grazed the runway in a Swarovski-crystallized ‘naked’ gown that was nearly second-skinned.
For beauty, smoked-out, sultry eyes by the hands of MUA Lucia Pica brought grunge to the runway. For the tresses, hair artist Cyndia Harvey opted for parted, low ponies for sleek ease. Nails have been a feature this season courtesy of manicurist Ama Quashie as faded black tips were kept gothic yet fresh.
Within the edginess of practicality, sensuality is afoot for AW23 dressing.
Consider summertime beauty, perfected. Set on the salt-concentrated mountains of Arles, France, from saltwater-slicked hair to sunburn-like flush to earthy eyes, nature was realized as inspiration for beauty at Jacquemus’ FW22 ‘Le Papier’. More on the stunningly-beautiful beauty moments, below.
Taking notes from the creamy, muted FW22 palette, eyes at Jacquemus were earthed with matte-hued eyeshadows in a painterly motion across the lids. Artfully applied via pro MUA Lauren Parsons, a palette of tonal pigments was revealed in the eye makeup. Gritted with a chalk-like from-the-earth texture, nature, as it was, was at play.
As for the cheeks: Sun-glazed skin was kept luminous on the high points of the cheekbones, followed by microdots of mini faux freckles grazed across the face. Overall, skin texture was kept fresh and healthy with hints of a sunburn-like flush. Though minimalist, Parsons’ approachable beauty outlook was breathtaking. Capture the sun-soaked dew with Milk Makeup Cream Highlighter Stick.
About hair? Pro Cyndia Harvey transformed hair into ever-otherworldly. The salt-water textured ‘do was made away from the face slicked into a finishing low pony. Baby curls were made accessory to the face as a gelled-down point of difference. Athletic yet carefree, hair stuck to a come-as-you-are naturalness from root to tip(s). IRL vacation? Summer’s ready.
Beauty is as bold as ever. Spring’s exciting glimpse into 2022 draws the line between the fantasy & fresh – proving directional, unapologetic beauty is for new beginnings ahead. Pro MUA Diane Kendal harked on shadowy, lived-in eyes at KHAITE to mirror the longingness to feel once more post-isolation. At Supriya Lele, lips were glossified with a chocolate brown lip service. Grunge for 2022 is the word of mouth. Pro Pablo Rodrigues gave wet, out-of-shower skin a high-fashion update with a strobe-lit, glowy finish. From undonely-kempt tresses to the facial features that stick, aesthetic escapism reigned on this year’s beauty dossiers.
For Simone Rocha, beauty is a secular experience. From Thomas de Kluyver, adornment came in the way of Gothically-imagined hand-pressed images of cherubs placed on the face and body throughout. This contrasted the baptismal-looking dipped hair, which was accessorized with beaded crowns. Cheeks were made to sparkle as skin was left youthful & healthy.
Grunge is the word of mouth for 2022. Pro Hiromi Ueda glossified lips at Supriya Lele with a chocolatey-brown hue that’s oh-so reminiscent of nineties lip service. Ueda made statement lips sultry-sweet with the vampy appeal. All impact without apologies, bold lips are the nostalgic trend that’s sealed with a kiss for 2022 beauty. Opt for Laura Mercier Rouge Essentiel Cream Lipstick in Chocolate Divin.
At Chloe, consider the (winged) point made by makeup artist Hannah Murray. Liner became ‘surf punk’ all thanks to the MUA’s horizontal approach to the typically flicked-out shape. From the tear ducts to the corners of the eyes, neon orange graced the lash line. Elsewhere, the face was kept healthy-looking with eyes given dabs of wet-looking gloss.
When it comes to a glass-like skin finish, it’s the balmy, out-of-water touch that takes the face from the ocean to high-fashion effortlessness. MUA Pablo Rodrigues artfully applied highlighter by way of Illamasqua to the high points of the brow bone, cupid’s bow, cheeks, and chin at David Koma. To capture this look, opt forIllamasqua’s Beyond Liquid Highlighter – OMG or E.L.F. Electric Mood x Tove Lo Glassy Skin Balm.
Sooty, lived-in eyes were the focus for 2022 makeup. As with lips, makeup leaned into a grunge aesthetic which timelessly defined a decade. Rimmed coal eyes at Sandy Liang paid a statement to the Spring/Summer presentation. Lids & under eyes received the smudgy treatment. At Eftychia, MUA Becca Wordingham graced eyes with a creamy, blendable pencil to add effortless wow. At KHAITE, Diane Kendal lightly smoked-out lids to capture shadowiness. To achieve this look, opt for19/99 Barna Precision Colour Pencil.
Lashed-out, doll-like eyes are what’s to be expected. Makeup done by way of Valentina Li proved to be a standout at this year’s Fashion Week. Individual lashes were expertly placed surrounding the eyes in a nonchalant fashion proving fantasy & cool do co-exist. The look embodied a come-as-you-are sense that’s synonymous to Spring freshness. This look can be completed with Tower 28 BeachPlease Luminous Tinted Balm in Golden Hour.
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Leave it to Khaite’sCate Holstein to sartorially turnover a feeling. Musings on mood – Spring for Khaite is an evolved, post-isolation consciousness that’s gritted within a sense of place – of belonging once more. The label’s impossibly-chic repertoire approaches womenswear with a pragmatic otherworldliness to femininity, ever-reliably being the antidote to new season beginnings – and rebirth. Introducing Spring.
Styling followed democratic shapes & structure. Gently-filled down informed luminous coats & jackets. Harness-like silk straps became focal points which balanced floaty & poplin silhouettes. A liberating in-focus feature which grounded lighter ensembles. Western dressing was a touchpoint within the nineties-influenced collection. Leather & suede were a force throughout. Lengthening ruched dresses gave subtle sex appeal.
Escapist tones reigned at Khaite such as ivory, sooty noirs, and touches of khaki. Contrasts of textures & luminosity were at play: sequins balanced the solid tones & heavier-appeal of the cozier pieces such as the bombers. Metallic tones called in Spring which played as silvery adornment to trenches and bustier tops. And then there was THAT dress: A Swarovski-crystallized sheer dress slipped on by model Julia Nobis.
Makeup and hair mirrored the collection. No feature overpowered the other – rather, gentle definition informed beauty throughout. Everyday makeup became stunningly beautiful by way of MUA Diane Kendal. Lightly smoked-out lids were given neutral hue eyeshadow for colour & contour. Eyes became lashed with sweeps of mascara, followed by brushed-out brows for texture. The genius of the look? The cheeks welcomed iridescence whereas the shadowy-dimness of the eyes harked on our longingness to feel once again.
Pinky lips and mouths brought in new femininity. Porcelain skin was canvas to the makeup. Hair – as with previous collections – was undonely-kempt. Ease of tresses & locks were effortlessly groomed. Moodiness transcended to locks by the hands of hair-artist Duffy. As emotional as the collection was – strength was imbued from stitch to strand throughout.
Within the worst of the pandemic year, Khaite knows we’re still within the thick of it all. Never too far to deviate from the definitive New York wardrobe, Holstein answers with necessity over frivolity. What’s most authentic, works. Not over the top, the label’s collection approaches womenswear with a gritty earthiness that calls to the Khaite girl: Home. To Khaite? That’s Spring.
New heights. Beginnings afresh. At Jacquemus, “La Montagne” is an ‘en plein air’ ode to the summit of our expectations following isolation. Bright & beautiful, AW21 looks as flashy as convincing.
The showcase was inviting and directional. Surreal yet grounded. Simon Porte opted for an IRL runway for his Fall Ready-to-Wear see-now-buy-now collection. For those of us who missed a show, Jacquemus delivered. Make way for feel-so-good fashion & unapologetic colour fever (i.e. fiery tang & splashy pink). Anything but boring. Trust was a theme throughout. Outdoorsy harness-detailing dangled from cropped zipped shirts & attached to sheath, trompe l’oeil dresses. Silhouettes were as deconstructionist as freeing.
Headlining afoot? Enter Kendall, Bella, & Adut. Bella donned a straight-fitted elasticated waist skirt, finished with earthy crinkling. A part-armour, part bralette graced the decolletage. Shearling mules completed the tonal ensemble. Adut? It was an 80s colour palette which ruled no exception. Splashy pink & engine red soared sirens. For Kendall – it was all show with an ultra-cropped short-sleeved cardi with swaths of the fuzzy fabric secured together with a ‘JACQUEMUS’ closure.
The clasp was one of the details made hero for the collection, as also seen on model Devyn Garcia’s sensual, hickory-eggplant silk chemise & skirt set. Model Jill Kortleve sported a midi knit dress with thin straps held together with that ‘JACQUEMUS’ hardware. Open-vent trousers & boxy blazers were seen. Adapting from sartorial 80s & made anew, the collection was very future nostalgic.
Makeup was barely-there yet luminous. MUA Hiromi Ueda opted for a freshness that was athletic yet beautifying. A healthy base with a natural-looking brow & rosy, in-the-hills flush. Pared-back & soft, it was a sporty finish to complete the ensembles. Hair was followed on course via hairstylist Cyndia Harvey with earthy styles maintained in their most natural form. Hair was kept brushed away from the face, parted-down.
Neon green, atmospheric sky blue, deepended noir, & a palette of neutrals were seen throughout. Extremist lengths, shapes, & layering took to nature for inspiration (i.e. enwrapped sleeping-bag style skirts, itty crop tops, & sun hats). Breathing new energy into AW21, the pieces felt lively. What sets Jacquemus apart? Playing loud.
Resort 2022 for Khaite is summed as: When We Were ‘We’.
Mood of the moment, Khaite’s Cate Holstein captures the undergrounds of a post-pandemic feeling. By way of intuition, comfort re-emerges as a touchpoint for 2022 dressing (i.e. 90s informed, easy silhouettes).
Grit. Ease. Romance. Energy. For Khaite, Resort is all about instinct. Sewn within practicality, it is about identity. It carries a seriousness with utmost attention to agency, yet uplifted with an aura of empathetic femininity. Approaching & otherworldly, Holstein’s intent is moving.
Romance grounded Hellenic-style dresses & sets, with unending draping & gathered ruching. It was felt within its airiness. A dropped-waist jersey crepe dress paid accompaniment & contrast to the Grecian-like gowns, which was completed with a scoop neckline & relaxed fit. Ethereal & earthy colour palettes informed the collection.
THAT cardi-bralette set which sparked all radars is back in tow in a pink raspberry hue. An enduring staple to a stylish wardrobe. Sartorial iterations of the 70s (i.e. eyelet, open-back dresses & a multi-hued oversized pullover), was on display. Sport-luxe was as chic as ever. Pillowy puffers prove to be the stylish shields for cooler temperatures. A must. Khaite’s rendition of the biker short-bra top combo was hero of the collection, with its cursive namesake on the waist & underband to perfect the ensemble.
Hair was kept undonely human yet romantic. By way of hairstylist Joey George, evidenced was touch. Model Alyda Grace’s lengthy locks were kept lived-in whereas Emily Miller’s feathery bob was swept in 70s layers. Model Hiandra Martinez was graced with cornrows, secured with a finishing low bun & flyaway-free hair taming gel.
Makeup artist Cyndle Komarovski kept makeup stoic yet fresh. Gentle luminosity informed skin complexion (think: candlelit, lit-from-within) but not obviously so. Sculpting contour carved cheekbones. Brows were a feature point of the paired-back look, as the always steady facial architecture.
Resort for Khaite? Remembering who we were means to see ourselves again. It means through.
With the current austerity the world has had reckoned, visual optimism reigns en masse by way of Spring 2021 Fashion Month as a beautifying language for facial adornment (re: otherworldly beauty from Erdem Moralioglu to shockingly vibrant hues from Tom Ford & Christopher John Rogers). From graciously-thick graphic onyx liner to new hair lengths yet to reach its watery potential, escapism, fantasy, and self-discovery are the silver linings of what’s ahead for runway-inspired beauty trends.
The extrovert’s palette that rules no exception. Tom Ford’s amped exorbitant joie de vivre showcase was met with 80’s inspired flushes of fuschia pink cheekbone draping with metallic-like frosted eyes to match. Christopher John Rogers followed this suit with fantastical lip service of fiery orange. Bora Aksu proved a point of difference with a subdued yet equally glamorous approach. Bright hues were blurred and paired with veiled, translucent masks for a moving, directional display, softly patted by makeup artist Janeen Witherspoon. The takeaway? A potent, juicy springtime boost where serotonin levels electrify with impact.
According to Victoria Beckham, it’s all about what’s on the surface, i.e., minimalist yet radiant skin. And she’s not alone. Proenza’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, coupled with The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, offered an embrace to an earthy, natural approach to beauty. Barely-there, no-makeup makeup has returned, comfortingly. Beckham emphasized the subtle basics that merely deviate from the designer’s signature look: fresh-looking, out-of-shower skin & neutral-toned eyeliner. Lashes were made sensuous with the best-selling Satin Kajal Liner. It’s where Lucia Pieroni dots the line(r). Zoom call ready? Very posh.
THE GRAPHIC EYE
photo via CHANEL
The je ne sais quoi of beauty trends for 2021. What makes the graphic look so genius? It’s seasonless & completely adaptable. Take notes from Paris. Chanel’s take was a thickly-lidded smoky update that followed the eye’s natural arch and lid. Explained Chanel’s Global Creative Designer for Makeup and Colour Lucia Pica, “I really wanted the girls makeup to look very blurry, matte and pristine.” A 1920’s cinematic look with a modern update. Chloe’s proved to find less restraint with an added edge by way of a flick and double-winged liner to a boho lover’s bliss. Dior’s expectedly captured emotion with a daring heavily-handed, kohl eyeliner look – complementing fresh lips & skin.
This water-bound hair trend needn’t require a pool or beach – just a few drops of hair oil or dollops of pomade. Versace’s SS21 Hellenic-inspired glamourous showcase was all about every inch of sexuality, including the effervescently chic, Ursula Andress straight-from-the-water wet hair look. Chloe echoed the same note, with vestiges to off-duty ease. This Spring/Summer off-the-runway hair will be seen as a bonafide look for summery nonchalance.
INTELLIGENT FANTASY
photo via SIMONE ROCHA
WFH easy glamour begins here. Erdem’s otherworldly, intelligent beauty meets Rodarte’s spellbinding aesthetic. Pared-back, the wearer’s beauty undercurrents free & unfettered, with gestures to all encompassing gothic romance. Fantasy comes to mind when Simone Rocha is in the conversation, with pearled headpieces and doll-like blush application on cheeks.With NARS Global Director Uzo Ukaeje, the Mulleavy Sisters opted for Rodarte to turn towards vamp with Opulent Red. Erdem’s take on ethereal beauty was complemented by in-the-garden rosy cheeks & muted eyes with a softly defined brow.
The Ultimate Monochromatic Co-ed Showcase of 90s Playful Minimalism
Photos via VOGUE
Dubbed “L’année ‘97” or “The Year of ‘97”; Jacquemus’ insatiable Ready-to-Wear and Menswear Collections for Fall 2020 reintroduces 90’s sensual minimalism to our style dossiers. Why do we all love Jacquemus? Semblant within all of Jacquemus’ collections is a boyish, spirited approach drawn by his childhood. Iterations of linen were on display as it graced and draped high-voltage supermodels such as Laetitia Casta, the Hadids, Adut Koch Bior, Joan Smalls, & Doutzen Kroes. Being a rigid texture, the transformative nature of this textile was made sculptural, dimensional, & directional – manipulated to various, dream-like forms to our delight.
Photos via VOGUE
Featured hues included a medley of blue, ecru, khaki, hazy taupe, lavender, & pastel green. Gentle, the tonal showcase dictated a visual language of simplicity & purity – with linen acting as a storied anchor. The natural monochromatic palette of the ready-to-wear and menswear collections nodded to the ethereal, yet provided contrast. Though from previous collections’ past this was a dialed-down, neutral colourway – Jacquemus brilliantly teased us with pops of his eponymous neon-pink – as displayed in the iconic Spring/Summer 2020 show in his native, lavender-filled Provence. The signature pink popped & melded with the collection with utmost flair. Punctuation, perfected. In addition, new bag styles roamed the spacious runway such as a horizontal version of the iconic Chiquito; amongst varying silhouettes.
Photos via VOGUE
Jacquemus appeased our appetites for playful approaches to minimalism with a dialed-down colour palette, yet tested conventions to this streamlined design philosophy. The sumptuous detailing & “undoing” of the garments nods to the most storied of deconstructionism. Made tangible, the “unfinished” nature of the garment is a twist that informs re-imagined conventions of pared-back styles. We saw this through the appearance of trompe l’oeil peek-a-boo waistbands on trousers, gathered linen, and playful eyelet detailing. A melange of streetwear-inspired puffer coats, crop-tops, body-con, tonal multi-layering, & looser cuts were awash on the catwalk.
Photos via VOGUE
As the ultimate storyteller, Jacquemus proves once again to be the sartorial architect of muse-worthy fashion; as a twist of construction signals a figment of genius from the spirited designer – making classic styles anew, meaningful, & timeless.
UNDRESS YOUR STYLE 