Nensi Dojaka Fall/Winter 2023

For Fall 2023, Nensi Dojaka finds a deeper romance and sensuality. The feminine codes of dress for the designer are often played out in juxtaposition (i.e., delicate fabrications intricately formed through craft and structure). This season, edgier silhouettes were met with seduction, as Nensi’s signature skin-baring ensembles revealed an inimitable 90s energy throughout.

Weighter materials such as denim were brought into the collection for the complete wardrobe. Impossibly-chic outerwear added a sumptuous appeal to the lighter-bodied fabrications. Of course, Nensi’s signature reimagined bralette cups, asymmetrical straps, and abundance of sheer were on display. 

Naturally, nature was in bloom and seen throughout such as diaphanous shaped ‘explosions’ on dresses that were equally sensual & cool. Colour washes of red, nude, and black were the foundational palettes of the collection. As finale, model Imaan Hammam grazed the runway in a Swarovski-crystallized ‘naked’ gown that was nearly second-skinned. 

For beauty, smoked-out, sultry eyes by the hands of MUA Lucia Pica brought grunge to the runway. For the tresses, hair artist Cyndia Harvey opted for parted, low ponies for sleek ease. Nails have been a feature this season courtesy of manicurist Ama Quashie as faded black tips were kept gothic yet fresh. 

Within the edginess of practicality, sensuality is afoot for AW23 dressing. 

Couture Week’s Best Beauty Moments

At Couture – beauty was conceptual. Beauty was realized as an exploration of other-worlds. Fendi’s starry interpretation of beauty was made heroine whereas Valentino’s dramatic eyes were met with hyper-wings & feathery plumes. Hyperreal skin wouldn’t go amiss at Schiaparelli. These are the moments to not miss for Spring. 


The starry veil of a crystallized galaxy was mirrored as inspiration and dotted atop the face for Fendi. Fendi’s sci-fi realization of Spring beauty was crystal-clear & in thanks to hair artist Guido Palau & makeup artist Peter Philips. Deliciously glossed hair was kept parted & fringed via Palau. Made heroine, needless to say. Placed throughout the face were micro crystals to be the ultimate facial halo. No additional accessories required. To achieve this look? Dot a micro gem on the inner corners of the eyes or equally as shield across the lid for a look that’s just as otherworldly. 



Dior’s love language for sooty, lived-in eyes were decidedly made anew for Spring. And it’s the eye trend that keeps lashes batting. The trend in question – underlined white liner, the hero beauty look. Think: the upside of sultry shadow. Thickly-lined white blocks graduated around the eye shape which emphasized it’s natural under line. To tightline the waterlines & roots of the lashes, MUA Peter Philips used the Diorshow Khôl pencil in 009 White Khôl which was then completed with the Diorshow On Stage Liner in 001 Matte White layered underneath the natural line. Gentle, soft-focus illumination informed the look.


Skin was standout at Schiaparelli. It was made surreal & secular through Dame Pat McGrath’s genius with glow. Cheekbones? It was a (golden-champagne) highlight. Eyes were maintained as clean with a touch of shadow to mattify the lids. Other looks included a heavier-hand with further shadow & bejewelled glam. Opt for the Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Foundation and Sublime Perfection Concealer for runway-ready dewiness. 


Feathery plumage & ultra-extended graphic winged liner informed Valentino’s Haute beauty. Longingness is beautified through the bold looks as seen throughout. This echoed the emotionally-grounded collection as a (literal) extension of oneself. McGrath emphasized the strength of the upper lash line (either by way of feathers or hyper-winged liner). Glowing & fresh skin was a continuity paired with the lashed looks. 

SS22’s Best Beauty Moments from Fashion Month


Beauty is as bold as ever. Spring’s exciting glimpse into 2022 draws the line between the fantastical & the fresh – proving directional, unapologetic beauty is for new beginnings ahead. Pro MUA Diane Kendal harked on shadowy, lived-in eyes at KHAITE to mirror the longingness to feel once more post-isolation. At Supriya Lele, lips were glossified with a chocolate brown lip service. Grunge for 2022 is the word of mouth. Pro Pablo Rodrigues gave wet, out-of-shower skin a high-fashion update with a strobe-lit, glowy finish. From undonely-kempt tresses to the facial features that stick, aesthetic escapism reigned on this year’s beauty dossiers. 


For Simone Rocha, beauty is a secular experience. From Thomas de Kluyver, adornment came in the way of Gothically-imagined hand-pressed images of cherubs placed on the face and body throughout. This contrasted the baptismal-looking dipped hair, which was accessorized with beaded crowns. Cheeks were made to sparkle as skin was left youthful & healthy. 


Grunge is the word of mouth for 2022. Pro Hiromi Ueda glossified lips at Supriya Lele with a chocolatey-brown hue that’s oh-so reminiscent of nineties lip service. Ueda made statement lips sultry-sweet with the vampy appeal. All impact without apologies, bold lips are the nostalgic trend that’s sealed with a kiss for 2022 beauty. Opt for Laura Mercier Rouge Essentiel Cream Lipstick in Chocolate Divin.


At Chloe, consider the (winged) point made by makeup artist Hannah Murray. Liner became ‘surf punk’ all thanks to the MUA’s horizontal approach to the typically flicked-out shape. From the tear ducts to the corners of the eyes, neon orange graced the lash line. Elsewhere, the face was kept healthy-looking with eyes given dabs of wet-looking gloss. 


When it comes to a glass-like skin finish, it’s the balmy, out-of-water touch that takes the face from the ocean to high-fashion effortlessness. MUA Pablo Rodrigues artfully applied highlighter by way of Illamasqua to the high points of the brow bone, cupid’s bow, cheeks, and chin at David Koma. To capture this look, opt for Illamasqua’s Beyond Liquid Highlighter – OMG or E.L.F. Electric Mood x Tove Lo Glassy Skin Balm.


Sooty, lived-in eyes were the focus for 2022 makeup. As with lips, makeup leaned into a grunge aesthetic which timelessly defined a decade. Rimmed coal eyes at Sandy Liang paid a statement to the Spring/Summer presentation. Lids & under eyes received the smudgy treatment. At Eftychia, MUA Becca Wordingham graced eyes with a creamy, blendable pencil to add effortless wow. At KHAITE, Diane Kendal lightly smoked-out lids to capture shadowiness. To achieve this look, opt for 19/99 Barna Precision Colour Pencil. 


Lashed-out, doll-like eyes are what’s to be expected. Makeup done by way of Valentina Li  proved to be a standout at this year’s Fashion Week. Individual lashes were expertly placed surrounding the eyes in a nonchalant fashion proving fantasy & cool do co-exist. The look embodied a come-as-you-are sense that’s synonymous to Spring freshness. This look can be completed with Tower 28 BeachPlease Luminous Tinted Balm in Golden Hour



Leave it to Khaite’s Cate Holstein to sartorially turnover a feeling. Musings on mood – Spring for Khaite is an evolved, post-isolation consciousness that’s gritted within a sense of place – of belonging once more. The label’s impossibly-chic repertoire approaches womenswear with a pragmatic otherworldliness to femininity, ever-reliably being the antidote to new season beginnings – and rebirth. Introducing Spring.

Styling followed democratic shapes & structure. Gently-filled down informed luminous coats & jackets. Harness-like silk straps became focal points which balanced floaty & poplin silhouettes. A liberating in-focus feature which grounded lighter ensembles. Western dressing was a touchpoint within the nineties-influenced collection. Leather & suede were a force throughout. Lengthening ruched dresses gave subtle sex appeal. 

Escapist tones reigned at Khaite such as ivory, sooty noirs, and touches of khaki. Contrasts of textures & luminosity were at play: sequins balanced the solid tones & heavier-appeal of the cozier pieces such as the bombers. Metallic tones called in Spring which played as silvery adornment to trenches and bustier tops. And then there was THAT dress: A Swarovski-crystallized sheer dress slipped on by model Julia Nobis

Makeup and hair mirrored the collection. No feature overpowered the other – rather, gentle definition informed beauty throughout. Everyday makeup became stunningly beautiful by way of MUA Diane Kendal. Lightly smoked-out lids were given neutral hue eyeshadow for colour & contour. Eyes became lashed with sweeps of mascara, followed by brushed-out brows for texture. The genius of the look? The cheeks welcomed iridescence whereas the shadowy-dimness of the eyes harked on our longingness to feel once again. 

Pinky lips and mouths brought in new femininity. Porcelain skin was canvas to the makeup. Hair – as with previous collections – was undonely-kempt. Ease of tresses & locks were effortlessly groomed. Moodiness transcended to locks by the hands of hair-artist Duffy. As emotional as the collection was – strength was imbued from stitch to strand throughout. 

Within the worst of the pandemic year, Khaite knows we’re still within the thick of it all. Never too far to deviate from the definitive New York wardrobe, Holstein answers with necessity over frivolity. What’s most authentic, works. Not over the top, the label’s collection approaches womenswear with a gritty earthiness that calls to the Khaite girl: Home. To Khaite? That’s Spring. 


Jacquemus AW21 Ready-to-Wear

New heights. Beginnings afresh. At Jacquemus, “La Montagne” is an ‘en plein air’ ode to the summit of our expectations following isolation. Bright & beautiful, AW21 looks as flashy as convincing. 

The showcase was inviting and directional. Surreal yet grounded. Simon Porte opted for an IRL runway for his Fall Ready-to-Wear see-now-buy-now collection. For those of us who missed a show, Jacquemus delivered. Make way for feel-so-good fashion & unapologetic colour fever (i.e. fiery tang & splashy pink). Anything but boring. Trust was a theme throughout. Outdoorsy harness-detailing dangled from cropped zipped shirts & attached to sheath, trompe l’oeil dresses. Silhouettes were as deconstructionist as freeing. 

Headlining afoot? Enter Kendall, Bella, & Adut. Bella donned a straight-fitted elasticated waist skirt, finished with earthy crinkling. A part-armour, part bralette graced the decolletage. Shearling mules completed the tonal ensemble. Adut? It was an 80s colour palette which ruled no exception. Splashy pink & engine red soared sirens. For Kendall – it was all show with an ultra-cropped short-sleeved cardi with swaths of the fuzzy fabric secured together with a ‘JACQUEMUS’ closure. 

The clasp was one of the details made hero for the collection, as also seen on model Devyn Garcia’s sensual, hickory-eggplant silk chemise & skirt set. Model Jill Kortleve sported a midi knit dress with thin straps held together with that ‘JACQUEMUS’ hardware. Open-vent trousers & boxy blazers were seen. Adapting from sartorial 80s & made anew, the collection was very future nostalgic. 

Makeup was barely-there yet luminous. MUA Hiromi Ueda opted for a freshness that was athletic yet beautifying. A healthy base with a natural-looking brow & rosy, in-the-hills flush. Pared-back & soft, it was a sporty finish to complete the ensembles. Hair was followed on course via hairstylist Cyndia Harvey with earthy styles maintained in their most natural form. Hair was kept brushed away from the face, parted-down.  

Neon green, atmospheric sky blue, deepended noir, & a palette of neutrals were seen throughout. Extremist lengths, shapes, & layering took to nature for inspiration (i.e. enwrapped sleeping-bag style skirts, itty crop tops, & sun hats). Breathing new energy into AW21, the pieces felt lively. What sets Jacquemus apart? Playing loud.

Feel again.


SS21’s Biggest Beauty Looks from Fashion Month

With the current austerity the world has had reckoned, visual optimism reigns en masse by way of Spring 2021 Fashion Month as a beautifying language for facial adornment (re: otherworldly beauty from Erdem Moralioglu to shockingly vibrant hues from Tom Ford & Christopher John Rogers). From graciously-thick graphic onyx liner to new hair lengths yet to reach its watery potential, escapism, fantasy, and self-discovery are the silver linings of what’s ahead for runway-inspired beauty trends.


The extrovert’s palette that rules no exception. Tom Ford’s amped exorbitant joie de vivre showcase was met with 80’s inspired flushes of fuschia pink cheekbone draping with metallic-like frosted eyes to match. Christopher John Rogers followed this suit with fantastical lip service of fiery orange. Bora Aksu proved a point of difference with a subdued yet equally glamorous approach. Bright hues were blurred and paired with veiled, translucent masks for a moving, directional display, softly patted by makeup artist Janeen Witherspoon. The takeaway? A potent, juicy springtime boost where serotonin levels electrify with impact. 


According to Victoria Beckham, it’s all about what’s on the surface, i.e., minimalist yet radiant skin. And she’s not alone. Proenza’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, coupled with The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, offered an embrace to an earthy, natural approach to beauty. Barely-there, no-makeup makeup has returned, comfortingly. Beckham emphasized the subtle basics that merely deviate from the designer’s signature look: fresh-looking, out-of-shower skin & neutral-toned eyeliner. Lashes were made sensuous with the best-selling Satin Kajal Liner. It’s where Lucia Pieroni dots the line(r). Zoom call ready? Very posh. 


photo via CHANEL

The je ne sais quoi of beauty trends for 2021. What makes the graphic look so genius? It’s seasonless & completely adaptable. Take notes from Paris. Chanel’s take was a thickly-lidded smoky update that followed the eye’s natural arch and lid. Explained Chanel’s Global Creative Designer for Makeup and Colour Lucia Pica, “I really wanted the girls makeup to look very blurry, matte and pristine.” A 1920’s cinematic look with a modern update. Chloe’s proved to find less restraint with an added edge by way of a flick and double-winged liner to a boho lover’s bliss. Dior’s expectedly captured emotion with a daring heavily-handed, kohl eyeliner look – complementing fresh lips & skin. 


This water-bound hair trend needn’t require a pool or beach – just a few drops of hair oil or dollops of pomade. Versace’s SS21 Hellenic-inspired glamourous showcase was all about every inch of sexuality, including the effervescently chic, Ursula Andress straight-from-the-water wet hair look. Chloe echoed the same note, with vestiges to off-duty ease. This Spring/Summer off-the-runway hair will be seen as a bonafide look for summery nonchalance.


photo via SIMONE ROCHA

WFH easy glamour begins here. Erdem’s otherworldly, intelligent beauty meets Rodarte’s spellbinding aesthetic. Pared-back, the wearer’s beauty undercurrents free & unfettered, with gestures to all encompassing gothic romance. Fantasy comes to mind when Simone Rocha is in the conversation, with pearled headpieces and doll-like blush application on cheeks. With NARS Global Director Uzo Ukaeje, the Mulleavy Sisters opted for Rodarte to turn towards vamp with Opulent Red. Erdem’s take on ethereal beauty was complemented by in-the-garden rosy cheeks & muted eyes with a softly defined brow.

Black-Owned Fashion Businesses You Can Support Now & Always

photo via Brother Vellies

As we’ve been following the ongoing, devastating consequences of systematic racism globally, we’ve been looking to be continually conscious on how we can dismantle this system of oppression through raising the profile of Black-Owned Businesses & Designers. Too often in the Fashion Industry, Black talent is neglected despite significant contributions to this realm.

To be an anti-racist ally for change, with our collective support and buying power, we can vote with our dollars and prompt economic & cultural transformation. We’re putting a spotlight on outstanding Black-Owned Businesses you can support now & forever. *Images are linked*

Brother Vellies

Founded in 2013, Brother Vellies is a footwear & accessories brand which was established by Toronto-born Creative Director and Founder Aurora James whose premise was to celebrate cultural heritage through traditional African craftsmanship & techniques, with an emphasis on feminine eclecticism. James founded the 15 Percent Pledge based on a call-to-action for brands to increase their shelf-space of Black-Owned Businesses to 15%.

photo top left and middle via Brother Vellies


Embedding an ultra-feminine sensibility into the decidedly sensual aesthetic of her namesake brand CUSHNIE, Creative Director & CEO Carly Cushnie artfully formulates sex appeal within her womenswear collections, emphasizing on form & structure. Cushnie’s Spring ’19 NYFW Runway Show marked the emancipation of her first solo collection and defined the brand as assuredly luxurious & sophisticated. Expect fluid silhouettes, sumptuous silk charmeuse, & re-imagined necklines.

photo via CUSHNIE. photo top right via CUSHNIE

Lisa Folawiyo

Merging West African textile traditions with modern silhouettes, globally-renowned Lisa Folawiyo melds perenially-chic femininity with alluring craftsmanship. With Ankara dress-wear as inspiration, through fanciful embellishment & texture, Lisa Folawiyo transforms the tradition of African aesthetics as decadently anew & as decidedly hers with her namesake label. Adorning Solange, Lupita Nyong’o, & Lucy Liu; discover beautifying motifs within her collections.

photo top left and middle via Lisa Folawiyo
photo via Christopher John Rogers

Christopher John Rogers

The architect of THAT bulbous strawberry-shaped cropped top, Christopher John Rogers is a force to be reckoned through his unapologetic use of vibrant colourways, harmonious showcases of lustrous silk, & experimental silhouettes. Exemplifying self-assured celebratory femininity, the Louisiana-born designer was the top recipient of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards in 2019. Expect voluminous shapes & all-encompassing captivating details.

photo via Christopher John Rogers. captured by Ibragim Gatsiev. photo middle right shot captured by Tre Koch & Raoul.
photo via TyLynn Nguyen. shot captured by Ford

TyLynn Nguyen

Alluring. Architectural. Decadent. For lovers. Balancing sensual femininity with empowering strength, TyLynn Nguyen achieved a perfecting sartorial formula to a beautifying collection of the most luscious and luxurious undergarments. Her self-titled collection consists of intimate mesh panties, refined underwire-less & laced triangle cup bras that move with you with maximum comfort.

photo via tylynnnguyenoffical
‘homecoming’. photo via Sindiso Khumalo. shot captured by Jonathan Kope

Sindiso Khumalo

Based in Cape Town, South Africa, Sindiso Khumalo is a prolific textile designer who merges sustainable fabrications with African storytelling in her alluring designs. A distinct narrative that embraces her Zulu & Ndebele heritage, Sindiso Khumalo’s namesake brand evokes a visual language of empowering identity through ornate patterning & silhouettes married with the promise of ethical craftsmanship.

photo via Sindiso Khumalo
photo via Sindiso Khumalo
photo via EDAS. shot captured by Carolyne Loree

photo via EDAS. shot by Carolyn Loree. photo bottom left via EDAS. shot captured by Luna Antonia Arboleda


Embracing eclectic, unapologetic femininity punctuated with detailed colourways and contrast, EDAS is a sustainable accessories brand regarded for their ornate jewelry & supple leather goods. EDAS’ collection, “edas x Mexico” fuses founder’s Sade Mims creative talents with the artisanship of makers in Leon, Guanajuato to form a line that unveils a beautified, authentically-crafted narrative of Mexico. Discover their Charro One Shoulder Wrap Top, Luna Earrings, & Charcoal Delantal Top.

photo via Jade Swim

Jade Swim

Dreamt by Stylist and Fashion Editor Brittany Kozerski, JADE Swim is a minimalist yet sensual swimwear line laden with innovative silhouettes and styles. Regarded for its shape-enhancing cuts, JADE honours its alluring namesake from nature. Bright & Earthy tones reign within their sporty collections. Your next Summer uniform begins with their editorial-approved “Evolve” One-Pieces.

photo via Jade Swim

Sincerely, Tommy

Kai Avent-deLeon established Sincerely, Tommy in Brooklyn, New York where unbearably chic high-end emerging designers are stock-listed. Located in the neighbourhood of Brooklyn’s Bed-Stuy, Sincerely, Tommy maintains an eclectic aesthetic while diversifying to community-orientated ventures with the launch of S,T Coffee, S,T Well, & S,T Eat & Stay. Avent-deLeon launched her thoughtfully-priced line, Sincerely, Tommy, capturing the essence of fresh femininity discerning shoppers crave.

photo via Sincerely, Tommy

photo top left and middle right via Sincerely, Tommy

photo via Sincerely, Tommy. shot captured by Anthony Bryant

Thebe Magugu

Contemporary with nods to cultural storytelling, established in Johannesburg, South Africa, Thebe Magugu is a Fashion Brand that emphasizes on women’s ready-to-wear. From stitch to finish, Magugu’s designs are conceptualized and manufactured within the African continent. Woven within the fabric of his collections, Magugu’s approach to sartorial design embraces his African roots, which perfected through reimagined tailoring.

photo via Thebe Magugu. shot by Kristin-Lee Moolman
photo via Thebe Magugu. shot by Kristin-Lee Moolman

Matte Brand

Unapologetic sexiness with an embrace to sartorial 90s fashion defines the editorial aesthetic of Briana Wilson’s line, Matte Brand. Defining a decade into modernity, Matte’s latest collection, “Matte 1992”, epitomizes unabashed femininity. The cult-loved brand is at the forefront of representation which includes women of colour, shapes, & body types. Find forever essentials such as their body-hugging leisurewear.

(top & bottom left) photos via Matte
photo via Matte
photo via lemlem. bottom right: photo via Net-a-Porter. shot captured by Cass Bird


Anchored in its literal translation to “flourish” & “bloom”, lemlem is ever-reminiscent of a brand whose moral-driven mandate is woven within the fabric of their DNA & the embodiment of its Amharic-lended namesake.

lemlem founder Liya Kebede sought to preserve traditional weaving techniques, & safeguard the market for locally produced goods & employment opportunities from her native Ethiopia. Made entirely in Africa, beautified, decorated patterning and gentle colour palettes awash the Ethiopian brand’s elevated aesthetic.

Third Crown designers Kofi & Kristin Essel. photo via Third Crown for StylingSOUL. shot captured by Erica Génécé. photo bottom right via The Folklore.

Third Crown

Derived from a namesake that symbolized a powerful union, Third Crown designers husband-and-wife couple Kofi and Kristin Essel conceptualized an aesthetic that celebrated their Ghanian & Jamacian roots. With a synchronous discerning allure for architectural structure and geometric design, Harlem-based Third Crown reimagines show-stopping jewelry as elegantly understated. Storytelling through gestures of love.


Standing for strength and beauty inspired by the artist herself, TOVE is a London-based brand conceptualized by co-founders Camille Perry & Holly Wright following demonstrated industry experience. TOVE is defined by its minimalist, yet decidedly feminine aura, which is exemplified by its languid silhouettes and considered fabrications.

(top left) photo via TOVE. (bottom left) photo via TOVE. shot captured by Georgia Devey Smith

photo via TOVE. shot captured by Georgia Devey Smith

Aisling Camps

From an unconventional start as a Mechanical Engineer, Caribbean-raised Aisling Camps found herself as a graduate at FIT & must-know Fashion Designer with the fruition of her namesake label. The Brooklyn-based designer’s signature essentials include her enchanting fringe-mapped basics, & drop stitched cable knit sweaters finished with lace-like interwoven sofilo yarn. Thoughtfully-curated, globally-minded pieces are made dreamlike & wearable.

photos top right and middle via Aisling Camps
photo via shopmcmullen. photo bottom left via shopmcmullen


From Christopher John Rogers to Jacquemus, the ultimate edit of emerging & established designers is nestled at Sherri McMullen’s namesake concept store, McMullen. The Bay Area-founded, all-inclusive brand features African and African-American designers based in the apparel and home décor industries. Transcending trends; elevated, eclectic, and sophisticated brands with an editor’s sartorial insight are yours to discover at McMullen.

photo via Wales Bonner. shot captured by Harley Weir. photo middle right via Wales Bonner

Wales Bonner

Otherworldly and transcendent, Grace Wales Bonner’s Menswear & Womenswear collections are a tactile exploration of identity, race, and culture. Wales Bonner’s gender-fluid designs evoke a merging of European and Afro-Atlantic traditions, emphasizing intellectual conceptions of literature, critical theory, and art. Soulful and contemporary, signatures are distinguished through sharp tailoring.

photo via Wales Bonner. shot captured by Stef Mitchell

For more information on how your can donate & support worthy causes, please visit 15 Percent Pledge & Black in Fashion Council